Casa Nereta: The artistic landscape of Cadaqués

Nestled along the rugged coastline of Costa Brava, Cadaqués emerges as a serene coming together of nature and art. Its whitewashed buildings, kissed by the sun and framed by cerulean waters, evoke a sense of timelessness that draws both travelers and dreamers alike. Here, where the whispers of the Mediterranean mingle with the echoes of artistic genius, lies Casa Nereta, a sanctuary that transcends mere accommodation. Originally conceived as a home and studio for avant-garde Catalan painter Joan Ponç, this boutique hotel breathes life into its storied past while embracing modern comforts. The architectural dialogue between warmth and elegance welcomes guests to stay and linger in the essence of what once was.

Every morning, I’d wake up to Cadaqués. The sea, the sun rising, the chapel in the distance, and the many homes that faced out onto the shore. The view from my balcony called out like kids in a playground, beckoning me. Strolling through narrow alleys and cobbled streets, it became apparent that Cadaqués is not just a location but a living canvas. It is no wonder, that many groundbreaking artists that came before found solace and inspiration in its tranquil confines. Here diverse narratives converge; laughter mingles with foreign dialects while locals share their rich cultural heritage. This intricate dance between past and present becomes a meditation on acceptance as we navigate our unique journeys.

Each corner of Casa Nereta tells a story; from its soft curves inspired by Rudolf Steiner to the thoughtfully curated spaces that invite reflection and connection. A home passed down through the ages, the hotel stands as an eloquent reminder of time’s passage — its renovation in 2016 preserved its artistic legacies while fostering sustainability through conscious choices such as recycled materials and plant-based amenities. Here, guests are enveloped in a space that respects nature and heritage, offering respite and an experience steeped in mindfulness. Now run by James Pons and his mother Romy, this mother and son-duo have continued to breathe a familial air into the hotel’s atmosphere, truly felt at every corner.

From breakfast in bed to culinary collaborations at the Bistro Nereta, dining here transcends mere sustenance; it becomes an act of harmony with the land itself. In Cadaqués, every meal is steeped in stories — of fishermen at dawn to artists finding inspiration under starlit skies, it invites us to savor not just food but be present in our experiences. Bistro Nereta holds residencies throughout the year, with El Puto Ken’s menu taking center stage this season. Croqueta’s, Ohitashi, and Dashi were just some of the menu’s many delights, elegantly paired with a rich selection of natural wines. In the evenings, I’d see James and Romy sharing dinner together. I found such beauty within this familial communion, it turned this restaurant into a family dining room where each dish carried not only flavor but also stories bound across generations.

A must-see in Cadaqués and a mere 10-minute walk from the hotel is the Salvador Dali House. Perched on the glittered shores of Port Lligat, the house stands as a testament to the artist’s extraordinary vision and eccentricity. This labyrinthine abode, initially a humble fisherman’s hut, was meticulously transformed over four decades into an immersive reflection of Dalí’s surrealism. With its chalky walls blending seamlessly into the coastal landscape and signature eggs carefully positioned around the estate, the house invites visitors to traverse not just space but time itself — each room is a portal into an era suspended between reality and imagination.

On the last eve, I stood by the bay as the night began to fall. Between the petrichor and scarcely scattered boats, I enjoyed a single scoop of truffle ice cream from the local ice cream shop Joia. It had been raining all day but had finally stopped, allowing me to take in the vast shore as the sun began to set. In the evening I met with James for a farewell drink. We chatted far into the night about our lives and hopes for the future, our relationship with our mothers, and upcoming travels. I really had been made to feel like part of the family, Casa does mean home after all.