Juana Martin Brings Strength and Femininity to Paris Couture Week

Paris Couture Week arrived in the city in full splendor. In a strikingly majestic gesture to mark the occasion, Spanish horses greeted guests at the entrance of the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine. The impressive tableau set the tone for Juana Martín’s presentation, Presagio, before a single look appeared on the runway.

In the front row, a brief exchange with a French sculptor denoted that fashion designers, like sculptors, work through volume and silhouette by adding fabric as one would add material to a form. It was like a prelude to the show that was about to unfold.

The Andalusian designer draws on her heritage by placing the Spanish horse at the center of the collection’s narrative. The horse, a symbol of human conquest, was translated into armor-like silhouettes. Juana Martín employed sculptural volumes to emphasize the power of equine anatomy. The shape was deliberately enlarged: broad, sculpted shoulders and articulated sleeves projected a physical assertiveness, as though the body itself were claiming the space it occupies. The interplay of leather and silk gave rise to garments that are at once structured and fluid. The Presagio woman—imagined astride a horse—embodies this duality: the triumph of armor tempered by the femininity of silk carried by the wind.

Juana Martín’s devotion to Spanish couture traditions is apparent all through the show. The collection blended noble leathers with sheer tulle and flowing silks like a tightrope performance between structure and lightness. Traditional artisan techniques—brocades, beadwork, and torera-inspired detailing—imbued each garment with texture and depth. The careful tailoring and finishing are a testament to the precision and care behind every seam, fold, and embellishment. The result was a wardrobe where materiality revealed the dialogue between heritage, skill, and modern design sensibilities.

As the last models left the runway, the haunting strains of Canción del fuego fatuo, interpreted by flamenco singer Lole Montoya, lingered in the hall. Fuego fatuo means “foolish fire.” Traditional lore describes it as a light that leads or misleads but always disappears into the air. Each look appeared like a fleeting spark. The garments shimmered, moved, and vanished from view as the models walked away. Presagio is, indeed, a vision that appeared and vanished, leaving behind a lingering sense of strength, femininity, and heritage.