A New ICP Exhibition Examines Yves Saint Laurent Through the Lens
Art — 13.06.26
Words: Moe Wang
Photography takes center stage in the upcoming exhibition on Yves Saint Laurent. Presented by the International Center of Photography, the new exhibition slices into the French designer’s more than four-decade career through the lens of photography.
Peter Knapp, Cocktail dress from the Fall/Winter 1965 haute couture collection, also known as the “Tribute to Piet Mondrian.” Published in ELLE, September 1965 © Peter Knapp / ELLE France © Yves Saint Laurent © Jeanne Lanvin-Castillo
It’s safe to say that the crossover between fashion and photography has long been overdue, and the “Yves Saint Laurent and Photography” exhibition follows suit. Showcasing ephemera from more than four decades of Saint Laurent’s career, from magazine campaigns to intimate portraits, the curation traces the strong ties between the two mediums by examining how photography helped shape the iconic designer’s creative legacy.
Helmut Newton, Rue Aubriot, Pantsuit worn by Vibeke Knudsen, Fall/Winter 1975 haute couture collection. Published in Vogue Paris, September 1975 © Helmut Newton Foundation, courtesy Helmut Newton Foundation and Fondation Pierre Bergé
The first part of the show brings together iconic YSL fashion photographs and portraits captured by renowned twentieth-century photographers, including Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Andy Warhol, and more. Here, Saint Laurent’s portrait taken by Irving Penn in 1957 and that of Patrick Demarchelier in 2004 will be on display, alongside images by William Klein in 1962 to runway backstage shots in the 1980s framed by Bettina Rheims.
Arthur Elgort, Wedding dress worn by Mounia Orosemane, accompanied by a page girl and page boy, Fall/Winter 1981 haute couture collection. Published in Vogue Paris, September 1981 © Arthur Elgort © Yves Saint Laurent
Gian Paolo Barbieri, Creations from the Spring/Summer 1988 SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collection worn by Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell. Images used for the catalog of the collection © Gian Paolo Barbieri, Courtesy Fondazione Gian Paolo Barbieri © Yves Saint Laurent
The second part then follows the designer’s creative eras through a collection of ephemera pulled from the archives of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. More than 200 objects— from contact sheets, promotional notebooks, campaign catalogues, press clippings, magazines, Polaroids, and personal photographs—will be on view.
Tailored suit worn by Anna Karin, Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 1991 collection, 5 Avenue Marceau, Paris, July 1991. Polaroid by fashion house staff © All rights reserved © Yves Saint Laurent
The collected images, spanning promotional campaigns to personal Polaroids, thus come together to highlight the integral role photography has played in both the designer’s private life and the history of his fashion house. For Yves Saint Laurent, fashion photography existed not only as a promotional tool but also as a creative force that shaped his vision and legacy.
Jean-Claude Sauer, Cocktail dresses known as “Homage to Pop Art,” Fall/Winter 1966 haute couture collection. Published in LIFE magazine, September 1966 © All rights reserved © Jean- Claude Sauer
“Yves Saint Laurent and Photography” will be on view at the International Center of Photography, New York, from June 11 through Sept 28. Located on Ludlow Street, learn more and plan your visit here.