Bahrain: The Pearl of the Gulf, gleaming through history and memory
Travel — 08.04.25
Words: Desislava McIlwraith
Photography: Kerr McIlwraith
Bahrain has always lingered on my radar in one form or another — whether through work, vague and ambiguous childhood memories of a family member traveling there, or simply through my encounter with Ishaq Madan, one of the country’s most prominent contemporary photographers if not THE most prominent creative, capturing the country’s essence in the most ingenuous way. I’ve been to Manama twice, and each time, Bahrain has revealed a new, even more beautiful face to me. Whether it’s a leisurely stroll through the Souq, walking through the historic gate marking the city’s origins, or a quick stop at the Post Office Museum — something I never thought would excite me — Bahrain always has something unexpected to offer. Though I’ve never considered myself a philately aficionado, I found the museum’s architecture and its deep cultural connections with the world to be fascinating (we even discovered a Bulgarian stamp!). I got tickled when I spotted a heart-shaped sticker on a vintage postal cash machine from the 1960s. It spoke to me about its former owner, about how human nature subtly reveals itself in the smallest, most invisible ways, even through a simple gesture of personal ownership or creative expression – who knows?
However, my most recent and exciting discovery has been the “Pearling Path.”
What I hadn’t realised is that none other than Monsieur Jacques Cartier himself made the journey to Manama to handpick the finest pearls for his exquisite creations. Bahrain has a long and rich tradition of pearl harvesting, and everything about this craft fascinates me. From the ancient practice of diving to great depths without any professional equipment, to the painstaking preservation of oysters and the subsequent export of their treasures that would adorn the likes of Princess Diana, the Queen of Jordan, and many other well-known – and unknown – fabulous individuals.
What truly captivated me, however, is how all of this history is encapsulated within the heritage trail in Muharraq, the old town. Here, you can step inside the grand homes of the wealthiest merchants, where business deals were once negotiated while the women of the household watched from above. You can pause at Bait Nasser by Roaya Saleh, the visionary behind Villa Mamas, admire the brutalist architecture of the visitor centre, and conclude your journey at the Pearling Path Museum, where even the walls have a pearlescent quality. As Ishaq explained, this wasn’t a deliberate design choice; rather, it was a natural response to the environment, the result of oxidation over time.
Speaking of this marriage between the elements, our next stop took us to a local legend: a trinket shop owned by a Bahraini man renowned not for anything else, but for his magic tricks. After a series of nerve-wracking demonstrations, including a sword and a few mind-boggling card illusions, I found myself completely and irrevocably in love with this place. It was somehow both introverted and cozy, yet felt incredibly sociable and heartwarming at the same time.
I even bought a pearl and learned that when purchasing a certified item, it comes with an ID, a picture, and a certificate. I think I’ll have to name mine, as it makes me feel deeply connected to this beautiful gem of the Gulf. Any suggestions?