Late Afternoon at Nas

Travel — 29.04.26

Words & Photography: Iliana Kanellopoulou

The North Aegean island of Ikaria has always done things differently. It’s shaped by isolation—not just geographically, but culturally. Named after Icarus, who fell into the sea nearby, the island carries a mythology of collapse and freedom in equal measure. Its terrain kept it out of reach for centuries, shaping a self-sufficient way of life.

 

The island is known for its longevity, often expressed through diet, routine and social ties. But being there resists that logic. It’s not something you analyze, but fall into. Life moves at its own pace, shaped by land, sea and community.

 

 

Nas Beach sits on the northwestern edge of the island. Above it, barely marked, are the remains of a sanctuary to the goddess Artemis. There are no signs, no clear boundaries, just stones scattered across the hillside, almost disappearing into the landscape. If you don’t know it’s there, you might miss it. If you do, it doesn’t change much. The past isn’t preserved, it’s absorbed.

 

 

The beach feels slightly removed from the rest of the island. The descent is steep, the space opens abruptly and then everything slows. Nas is known as a nudist beach, but that feels beside the point. There’s no performance to it. Bodies exist without tension. People move between the river and the sea, stay longer than they planned, and return.

It has also been, quietly, a place of escape. Travelers, artists and those living outside conventional structures pass through or stay for a while, forming loose communities that dissolve as easily as they form. Nothing is fixed, but the feeling lingers.

 

At sunset, the mood shifts. The rocks turn red, the sea grows rough and the wind picks up enough to push people out of the water. The beach gathers. People stop, watch, wait. It’s brief, slightly unpredictable and then it passes.

That’s the moment where I photographed Nas. The openness of the landscape, the quiet presence of the body, the sense of something older running underneath it all. It doesn’t try to hold your attention, yet captures it without interruption.