At Versace, Dario Vitale Takes it to the Max

When Donatella Versace announced her departure from the house she’s become synonymous with, the onslaught of surprise and awe could not be understated. Her swan song culminated in an emotional collection that celebrated the past three decades at the Autumn/Winter ’25 showcase last Milan Fashion Week. Now, the new era has officially begun, with Dario Vitale leading the charge as creative director of womenswear.

“The symmetry has cracked,” writes David Rimenelli in the Spring/Summer ’26 show statement—and fittingly, Vitale’s debut was one of disruption. As the first non-Versace at the helm of the brand, his vision is fresh, sexy, and imbued with pure reverence.

 

Considered ‘80s maximalism—the style synonymous with Gianni Versace’s early designs—makes its way through the lineup in graphic colors and exaggerated shoulders. Low-cut muscle tees call back to the sweaty sleaze of the era (think Miami Beach athleticism), modernized by playful layers and color clashing.

 

If referential silhouettes are at the heart of the collection, prints are its north star. Warholian faces and places make their way on tailored pants and sharp skirts. The iconic golden baroque and Medusa motifs are rendered in silk, while celestial embroidery dazzles on slick leather vests and crystallized bra tops. In a world fixated on staunch simplicity, Vitale is bringing visceral joy and bold seduction; clothing that is meant to be seen.