Proenza Schouler SS26: Coming Undone

 

Intimate, inverted, and effortlessly forward-looking—Rachel Scott for Proenza Schouler is here.

Described as a “prelude to a new chapter,” the highly anticipated collection made a quiet first appearance as Scott unveiled her vision in an off-calendar ceremony during fashion week. Though only a select few of insiders were privy to the showcase, its impact is already reverberating throughout the industry—and it’s only a precursor to her full creative debut, set for next February.

 

Keeping its essence of studied cool, the label’s downtown codes and modernist ethos are subverted with undone fringes and layers of asymmetry. As threads hang loose and edges lay raw, the pieces find polish in the unfinished—a true deconstruction to make way for rebirth.

 

What would be considered print-clashing reads more fluid than disruptive, as flashes of chrysanthemum motifs and distorted stripes dance among the collection’s neutral tones. Tailoring also comes undone, as frayed flourishes add texture to structured blazers and longline trench coats.

 

Scott, whose own label Diotima will show its SS26 collection on September 15, proves she continues to push the boundaries at both brands—an arbiter at the forefront of what’s to come from New York.