Detail Dive: The Best of New York Fashion Week SS26
Fashion — 16.09.25
Writing: Gabriella Onessimo
As New York Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer ’26 runways draw to a close, a state of the union is always in order. The overall forecast? Trends continue to reference workwear, nostalgia, and subversive takes on simplicity—with some notable concessions.
While fashion may be in its stripped-down era (perhaps a result of our collective yearning for the 90s), some brands are finding their footing in the fray. Between indulgent embellishments, playful particulars, and elemental textures, these standout collections emerging from New York prove the devil is in the details.
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- Images courtesy of Area
AREA: ORNAMENTAL MAXIMALISM
The long-awaited debut of Nicholas Aburn was an audacious introduction to his vision for the New York label. And then remove “vision” from the last sentence, change to: The return of the 2010s has been looming for some time, and Aburn channels its bold optimism to the highest heights.
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- Photos by Filippo Fior
SANDY LIANG: CHILDLIKE WONDER
Do you remember your most treasured toy from childhood? No stranger to all things girlish, New York’s whimsical darling finds inspiration in Huguette Clark—a 1906-born solitary heiress known for a doll obsession, among other quirks. Staged in a Fifth Avenue apartment, the showcase played up fantasy with PVC paneling, doll dresses (on human dresses), and a bridal look starring a proliferation of Liang’s signature bows. While the pieces leaned into camp, ruffled and lace accents offered a touch of coquettish elegance; a take on “kidcore” imbued with the refinement of the mid-century era.
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- Photos by Karla Tomanelli
WIEDERHOEFT: MODERN ROMANCE
Jackson Wiederhoeft is the couturier for today’s swans. His unmatched corsetry recalls baroque opulence, with boned bodices and crinoline-style skirts reaching museum-worthy heights. Shown in a salon-style presentation, beaded embroidery and shimmering stonework adorned the ornate gowns.
As a finishing touch, exquisite pieces from Ukrainian fine jewelry label Solo for Diamonds adorned the models’ necklines—adding an emotionally resonant layer that echoed the collection’s theatrical undertones.
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- Images courtesy of FFORME
FFORME: ARTFUL ARCHITECTURE
Hailing from New York, creative director Frances Howie is bringing European artisanal craftsmanship stateside. For next season, an ode to sun-worshipping culminates in ergonomic silhouettes and vivid details.
While the clothing is streamlined in spirit—the boxy tailoring and compressed leather tops are unmistakably minimalist—the pieces contain multitudes. Crinkled metallic mirrors the liquid reflection of water, while pearlescent sateens emit a soft glow. The finale, an ostrich feather coat styled atop a sleek dress, exemplifies the collection’s balance between intricacy and effortlessness.
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- Images courtesy of Vettese
VETTESE: LOST AT SEA
Kari Vettese contemplates the poetry of loss and innocence in a somewhat historically accurate lineup loosely inspired by Titanic; a warped version of “My Heart Will Go On” served as the baseline of the show’s ambient soundtrack. With each piece designed in Vettese’s in-house atelier, considered craftsmanship meets intentional deconstruction. The garments are ornately tattered, from an unraveled gown overlaid with sheer drapes to a lace-embroidered, silk corset split in two.
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- Images courtesy of Diotima
DIOTIMA: POWER PLAYER
Between debuting at Proenza Schouler and staging the first runway presentation for her own brand, Rachel Scott had a particularly busy week. At Diotima, Carnival and Caribbean culture took center stage, with crystal-encrusted mesh, sequined trims, and fringed tunics drawing on the vibrant characters of the scene. Scott continues to solidify herself as the maestro of textural knits, and SS26 set the status in stone.